Todays journey consisted of a very long uphill to a maximum height of approx 2400 feet folllowed by a series of ups and downs before the final descent to Palas.
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| leaving Portomarin |
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| milestone |
It wasn't long before I was trailing behind as usual, finding the long uphill walk a struggle and everyone was overtaking me. The majority of walkers continued to walk but slowed their pace going uphill, however I had to make frequent short stops to catch my breath before continuing. My walking companions reached Gonzar ahead of me but had the drinks and cake ready for my arrival and this renewed my energy. We planned a lunch stop in Eirexe which was after the highest point. We each decided to make our own pace and this was definitely one of the hardest parts of the Camino for me. The almost constant climbing combined with the scorching sun and the total lack of any shade meant I had to make extra stops to get drinks and rest. My companions texted when they arrived at our next meeting place and I was well behind at that stage. I was relieved to get to Ligonde as I knew I was getting close.
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| Road signs to beware of walkers crossing the road |
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| the only clouds were those from the planes passing overhead |
It was at this point I met one of my worst fears while crossing through a very narrow path between walls with a very uneven surface underfoot. I was picking my way cautiously over the cobbles as my feet were getting very sore and then in front of me I saw a snake! I was rooted to the spot for a few moments before plucking up the courage to take a big step over it and hope it wouldn't chase me. After negotiating this hurdle and rejoining the main path I was so happy to see Grainne walking towards me, obviously a bit concerned that I was so behind. We soon arrived at Eirexe and Linda immediately applied cloths with cool water from the spring beside the cafe to my back and shoulders, such a relief from the 30+ temperatures.
I sat for a long time before I felt I could set off again for the remaining 9K or so to get to Palas de Rei. At this point I could nearly have given up.I must have looked a mess because a lovely young American lady called Nicole came after me as I started to leave the Conde del Waldemar cafe to as me if I was OK because she thought I looked " a bit wobbly" when I finally got up to go. We chatted for a few minutes about lots of things which was really nice. This happened often along the journey and we spoke to many different people.
I got going again and took 2 more stops at Portos and Brea for ice lollies and drinks before the final climb through the woodlands past Rosario.
My companions had gone ahead and found our rooms for the night and then walked back to meet me with a fresh bottle of cold water for the last Kilometer.I will truly never again underestimate the value of water both for drinking and for cooling you down by pouring on your clothes.
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| At last-Palas de Rei! |
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| At the Britania bar in Palas de Rei |
Our room in the Pension Palas was lovely and after a long shower, change of clothes and shoes and plastering the feet I was amazed to find that I could muster up enough energy to walk to the town centre to visit the Britania bar. Friends of Grainne's had been there about 2 weeks previous and had recommended it to us. They had also asked us to deliver a small token from Ireland to "Miriam" who worked there. When we arrived she was not there but by the time we had eaten Miriam came in specially to meet us. Again food and service was excellent as was our breakfast next moring at our hotel.
Life is a
succession of lessons which must be lived to be understood.
Ralph Waldo
Emerson
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